Let us put it plainly: you have booked Shabbat in Safed’s Old City. Wonderful. A singular atmosphere, Galilean air, a sense of holiness. But Safed is not another city break where you throw a suitcase in the boot and drive off. That mistake repeats itself among visitors arriving for a weekend in the city of the kabbalists. They assume it will be like a cabin in the centre of the country or in Haifa. The mistake begins the moment they unload in the car park and realise that from here on it is mostly stone steps, and it ends when they are shivering on Friday evening because they forgot that Safed is not the coastal plain.
The short answer, for anyone in a hurry: beyond Shabbat clothes, a siddur, a hotplate and an urn (if the apartment does not provide them), you must pack a jacket or warm layer (yes, even at the height of August), comfortable flat walking shoes (the alley stones are slippery), a mechanical key or Shabbat lock for the apartment, a baby carrier (a pushchair can get stuck on the steps), and a decent emergency light.
The traps of the Old City: steps, parking and a climate that catches you out
Old Safed is built differently. Your car will not park outside the door of the cabin or the apartment. Parking is on the surrounding streets, such as Jerusalem Street, or in the nearby car parks, and from there a short but real walk on foot, often up and down steps, with everything you are carrying.
Coming with children
A carrier rather than a pushchair: on the sloping, stepped alleys a good carrier makes a considerable difference.
Board games and books: Shabbat in Safed is a very quiet one and invites real family time.
Basics for little ones: formula, nappies and anything essential are worth buying in advance. The shops close early on Friday.
A suite for two or a family apartment: what is waiting there
| Equipment | Suite for two in the Old City | Family apartment | Hotel or guesthouse |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shabbat hotplate and urn | Usually provided (check the size) | Provided as standard (large capacity) | Provided by the hotel |
| Linen and towels | Included, to a high standard | Included (worth checking quantities) | Included |
| Comfortable walking shoes | Essential, for the promenade and the alleys | Essential, for everyone | Essential |
| Warm layers | Essential in every season | Essential, especially for children | Essential |
| Food and cooking equipment | Bring light or ready-made | Bring ready-made, plus serving dishes | Full or half board |
What you only discover once you are in the apartment
Many owners have moved to electronic keypads at the entrance. That is convenient midweek, but on Shabbat it needs arranging in advance. Agree with your host before Friday that a physical mechanical key will be waiting for you. It is also worth checking the current status of the eruv with the relevant authorities (there is a city eruv in the Old City, but private courtyards and enclosed complexes are worth confirming), and checking the capacity of the urn against the size of your family.
The most common packing mistake
The most common mistake is to trust the forecast for the coastal plain. People often leave the centre of the country at thirty degrees and arrive in Safed in the evening to eighteen degrees and a cool wind. The difference is felt immediately. Beyond that, failing to arrange a Shabbat key, or arriving at the last minute before Shabbat when the traffic builds and the car parks fill, can make a difficult start to a holiday.
A tip from the ground
Arrive in the Old City with a comfortable margin before Shabbat comes in. Vehicle access to some areas may be restricted, the car parks fill up, and walking from the car to the apartment with your things takes time. Arriving early lets you settle in calmly, put the urn on and take a short walk through the alleys.
Common questions about preparing for Shabbat in Safed
What if we arrive with a baby and a pushchair?
The main alleys are partly accessible, but there are stretches with many steps. The best answer is a light folding pushchair, and a good carrier for Shabbat itself.
